Japanese cuisine is rich and varied. From traditional dishes "washoku" to Chinese cuisine "chūka ryōri", to Westernized cuisine "yōshoku", these three broad categories offer a multitude of flavors and preparations.
Furthermore, with the evolution of society and lifestyle, the perception of food is no longer limited to the simple satisfaction of hunger. More and more people are paying special attention to culinary culture and health. When talking about gastronomic culture and well-being, it is impossible not to mention one of the most emblematic Japanese cuisines: "kaiseki ryōri".
Today, Japanese cuisine (washoku) is attracting worldwide attention and is becoming a highly regarded gastronomy. Among them, kaiseki ryōri , considered the most authentic form of Japanese cuisine, is attracting great interest. Many dream of experiencing it during a trip to Japan.
However, some people hesitate because of the rules of etiquette that can seem complex. This is why this article offers a detailed presentation of kaiseki ryōri , explaining how it is done, the order of the dishes served as well as the main rules to follow at the table. The goal is to help everyone better understand this refined cuisine and enjoy it fully with complete peace of mind.
01 ◎ What is Kaiseki Ryōri ◎
Kaiseki ryōri originated from the cuisine served during tea ceremonies ( cha-kaiseki ). After tasting these dishes, a very strong tea is traditionally offered to the guests. Although certain rules of etiquette exist, the fundamental principle is based on the hospitality of the host towards his guests.
Inspired by the concept of wabi-sabi specific to the way of tea, kaiseki ryōri is based on three main principles:
- Use seasonal ingredients
- Enhance the natural taste of food
- Providing a culinary experience filled with hospitality
Its traditional form follows the "one soup, three dishes" ( ichijū-sansai ) model, comprising rice, soup, three side dishes, and pickled foods.
The term kaiseki originally refers to this cuisine, but to distinguish it from the cha-kaiseki practiced in the tea ceremony, the version offered in Japanese restaurants is generally called kaiseki ryōri .
In modern establishments, this meal may be slightly revisited, sometimes incorporating Western influences or a greater variety of dishes.
02 ◎ The origin of Kaiseki Ryōri ◎
Kaiseki is deeply connected to Zen , a branch of Buddhism. In the Zen tradition, monks in retreat would eat only one meal a day.
To alleviate hunger and maintain body heat when the temperature dropped, they would place a heated stone against their stomach. This stone, called "onjaku" (温石) , served to warm the body and quell hunger. The term kaiseki (懐石) literally means "stone in the breast," referring to this practice.
Thus, kaiseki ryōri originally referred to a simple meal , intended to warm the body and calm hunger, like this heated stone. In the tea ceremony, it refers to a light meal served before tea , called cha-kaiseki . Contrary to the current image of a refined feast , traditional kaiseki was neither luxurious nor accompanied by alcohol, but simply a modest preparation to soothe the stomach before tasting tea.
03 ◎ Difference between Kaiseki Ryōri and Kaiseki (Kaiseki) Ryōri ◎
Kaiseki ryōri (懐石料理) and kaiseki ryōri (会席料理) are pronounced the same in Japanese, but refer to two very distinct types of meals.
Kaiseki ryōri (会席料理) originated from honzen ryōri (本膳料理) , a cuisine once prepared by samurai to welcome their guests. Since honzen ryōri is very ceremonial, it is now mainly reserved for special occasions such as weddings and funerals.
Unlike kaiseki ryōri (懐石料理) , which is a light meal before tea, kaiseki ryōri (会席料理) is designed to be enjoyed with sake . Today, many Japanese gourmet meals draw inspiration from kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) , while incorporating elements of both honzen ryōri and kaiseki ryōri (懐石料理) .
04 ◎ Menu and method of using Kaiseki Ryōri ◎
As mentioned earlier, kaiseki ryōri in the tea ceremony follows the traditional "one soup, three courses" (ichijū-sansai) structure. However, in Japanese restaurants it is common to see a larger number of courses, a slightly modified order, or specific adaptations depending on the establishment.
Each restaurant may have its own service sequence. We will therefore present an example of a course sequence , while explaining the rules of tasting and good manners to adopt.
The goal of a meal is above all to share a pleasant moment with your guests and to appreciate the cuisine served. It is not necessary to be too rigid on etiquette, but having a knowledge of the basic rules and knowing how to adapt to the atmosphere of the moment allows you to enjoy the meal with more serenity.
1 Sakizuke (さきづけ) — Entrance
The first dish eaten after taking a sip of sake. It is usually pickled vegetables or raw fish accompanied by vegetables , offering a fresh and light flavor.
These dishes are often served on a platter or flat plate called an "oshiki" , and usually include several different types of food. Each dish is seasoned individually and can be eaten straight away.
2 Nimono-wan (にものわん) — Soup
The Nimono-wan (にものわん) is a covered bowl, which is held with the left hand while removing the lid with the right hand when serving.
This dish usually consists of a clear seasonal broth, containing fish, vegetables or chicken. The broth is prepared with a dashi made from kombu (seaweed) and dried bonito , providing a mild and delicate flavor. The secret lies in the quality of the dashi, and this is where the chef can demonstrate his expertise.
It is advisable to start by tasting the broth, then savor the ingredients that are immersed in it. The sweetness of the taste provides a feeling of relaxation and comfort, and the broth should be consumed in its entirety.
3 Tsukuri (造り) — Sashimi
Sashimi is often made with fish that has been kombu-jime (pressed with kombu), a technique where fish slices are wrapped in kombu seaweed so that their marine flavors permeate the flesh of the fish, without the seaweed being consumed.
It can also be cut using the kakushi-bōchō (invisible cuts) technique, where cuts are made at strategic locations to make the fish more tender and easy to eat. These subtle techniques add depth of flavor to sashimi.
The lightest ingredients are usually placed close to you, and it is advisable to start tasting the dishes closest to you, before moving towards those further away on the plate.
4 Yaki-mono (焼物) — Grilled fish
As the main dish of kaiseki ryōri , grilled fish is often prepared with seasonal white fish. However, in recent years, more luxurious dishes such as wagyu , abalone , and even lobsters or other shelled seafood are also offered.
The fish is often served whole, head and tail included, which can be difficult for some foreigners to eat elegantly. When the fish is served, the head is oriented to the left and the tail to the right .
The body of the fish contains bones, so it is advisable to start from the head , using chopsticks to separate the flesh above the bones and eat towards the tail . Then, one can gently press the head with the left hand, insert the chopsticks between the central bone and the flesh below, remove the bones, then place the head and bones at the back of the plate before continuing to eat the remaining flesh.
Fingers that have touched the fish should be wiped with the napkin placed on the table.
5 Hashi-yasume (箸休め) — Break for chopsticks
The term "hashi-yasume (箸休め)" can literally be understood as a chopstick break . This dish is usually served between courses, offering a moment of respite with a simple soup.
The clear broth is often served in a small bowl and is used to cleanse the palate of the flavors of previous dishes, preparing the taste for the next dish. It is recommended to drink the soup in its entirety to fully enjoy it.
6 Hassun (八寸) — Food to enjoy with alcohol
Hassun (八寸) is usually served on a square platter about 20 cm on each side , and contains a variety of seafood, vegetables, and delicacies from the sea and the mountains . These are carefully selected dishes to accompany alcohol, often presented on a decorated platter. These may include inedible items such as decorative branches or leaves , so it is perfectly acceptable to ask the server if you are unsure.
Hassun offers a combination of vibrantly colored and carefully presented dishes. It is an opportunity to enjoy delicious dishes while raising your glass, thus promoting exchanges and conviviality.
7 Takiawase (炊き合わせ) — Stew dishes
Takiawase (炊き合わせ) are simmered dishes made with various vegetables cooked in a light broth. These dishes are often served in small bowls with lids, allowing one to appreciate the presentation and careful cutting of the vegetables before opening the lid.
During the meal, a guest of higher status usually opens the lid, then slowly rotates it with the right hand while supporting the bowl with the left hand. The drops of water that are on the inside of the lid should be gently poured into the bowl. Then the lid is picked up with both hands and placed on the table.
At the end of the meal, it is important to put the lid back on the bowl, in the same way it was presented at the beginning.
8 Gohan to Kō-no-mono (ご飯と香の物) — White rice and pickles
Hot white rice or mixed rice , accompanied by red miso soup (赤味噌汤), and 3 to 5 kinds of pickles are served in small bowls.
Pickles (kō-no-mono) signal the end of the meal, marking the conclusion of the main dishes.
9 Kashi ・ Matcha (菓子・抹茶) — Dessert and Matcha
Dessert after the meal is usually Japanese sweets (kashi) , but fruits or granitas may also be served. To maintain a feeling of freshness, the chosen desserts are often light and delicate. The fruits are cut into easy-to-eat pieces, and it is advisable to start eating them from the right side. If Japanese sweets and matcha are offered, it is recommended to start with the sweets before drinking the matcha . Japanese sweets may be accompanied by a small stick called "kuromoji" , which is used to cut the sweets into easily edible pieces. When drinking matcha , although strict etiquette is not required in restaurants, it is appropriate to hold the cup with both hands and drink slowly. The last sip may be drunk in one go, which is considered the correct manner.
Although kaiseki ryōri offers a wide variety of dishes, it is essentially a light meal served before the main course. The amount of each dish is relatively small, and as soon as one dish is finished, the next one arrives quickly, reflecting the restaurant's service-oriented spirit. The kaiseki process and dishes presented here are just a few examples. Some restaurants may offer fried or steamed dishes, and the order and contents of the dishes may vary. However, by understanding the basics we have presented here, you can get a general idea of kaiseki ryōri and prepare for it as best you can. 05 ◎ The Labels of Kaiseki Ryōri ◎ 
When enjoying kaiseki ryōri in a restaurant, it is not necessary to know the etiquette as strict as those of tea ceremonies , but it is important to be informed of the basic rules. Clothing should match the atmosphere of the restaurant. If you know that the room is Japanese-style, it is best not to be barefoot, but to wear socks or tights . It is also advisable to avoid wearing too strong perfume, so as not to alter the aromas of the dishes. In addition, soup bowls can be made of lacquer , and matcha cups are often high-quality pieces. It is therefore recommended to remove your rings before touching the utensils, in order to protect their delicate finish. 
Although many modern restaurants have tables, in a traditional Japanese restaurant with tatami mats , there are rules of conduct that begin as soon as you enter the room. It is important not to step on the edges of the tatami mats (the areas lined with colorful fabric) or on the threshold (the wooden bar under sliding doors, such as shōji or partitions). The place of honor ( kamiza ) is closer to the wall where scrolls, flowers, and decorations are hung on high shelves. The lower place ( shimoza ) is closer to the door. If you are eating with elderly people, you should invite them to sit on the kamiza , while you take a seat on the shimoza . When moving around the room, you are not allowed to step over a standing seat cushion , and you should avoid stepping on it. When you sit down, you should do so on your knees , sitting gently next to the cushion, without stepping on it. 
The basic principle is to hold the chopsticks with the right hand and the tea bowl with the left hand , but this does not necessarily apply to left-handed people . The tea bowl should be lifted with the left hand . The rule for determining which objects should be held and which should be left on the table is simple: palm-sized utensils should be held, while larger objects should remain on the table. In other words, you can lift tea bowls , soup bowls , small bowls , and small bowls , but you should not lift flat dishes , tempura plates , or large bowls . If you need to move a dish to prevent the broth from boiling over, you can move the utensil on the tablecloth before lifting it, or use a napkin to catch any excess liquid. Important: Do not use your left hand to support a dish, even when it is being moved. 
Also, when eating sashimi , do not dissolve the wasabi in the soy sauce . Take a small amount of wasabi with chopsticks and apply it directly to the fish before dipping it in the soy sauce. It is best not to eat the rice , soup , and small dishes all at once, but to alternate them by putting them in your mouth. If you do not know how to eat a dish or want to know more about an ingredient, do not hesitate to ask the waiter , it is not frowned upon. By enriching your knowledge, you will also increase your appreciation of cuisine. 06 ◎ Conclusion ◎ 
Inheriting Japanese tradition, kaiseki ryōri is a tasting menu that allows you to enjoy a variety of dishes in small portions, making it particularly popular. Different restaurants offer various versions of this meal, with some even going so far as to offer European versions of kaiseki. However, regardless of the style, once you master the basics of table manners , you can easily enjoy and savor an authentic kaiseki meal!